Mowing too short is one of the biggest mistakes homeowners make.
For most Kansas lawns, once a week during the growing season is perfect — and never remove more than ⅓ of the grass blade at a time. Cutting too short stresses your lawn, thins out the turf, and invites weeds to move in.

If you want a healthy, lush look, mow taller and more often.
Keep your mower blades sharp and alternate mowing directions to prevent ruts.

📗 Source: K-State Research & Extension Lawn Care Guide

For most Kansas lawns (fescue, bluegrass, or ryegrass), the best fertilizing season is fall — that’s when roots grow strongest and nutrients are stored for winter.

Here’s your ideal schedule:

Spring: A light feeding can help early color. A good preemergent is critical to holding out grassy weeds like Crabgrass.

Summer: A light Summer fertilizer will help strengthen the root system and mitigate summer heat.

Early Fall: The most important feeding of the year. Rebuilds roots and thickens turf before winter.

Late Fall: A “winterizer” feeding strengthens your lawn to survive cold weather and rebound greener in spring.

If you’ve got Bermuda or Zoysia, shift those feedings to late spring through mid-summer when those grasses are actively growing.

💡 Pro tip: 2–4 feedings per year is plenty. Always follow soil test results for precise results — and never over-fertilize.

📗 Sources: K-State Extension MF1123, Scotts, Pennington

Absolutely — especially in Kansas clay soils. Over time, soil gets compacted and chokes off root growth. Aeration relieves that compaction, allowing water, air, and nutrients to reach the root zone.

Aim to aerate once a year in the fall for cool-season grasses, or late spring for warm-season lawns.
If your soil feels hard underfoot or water puddles up, it’s time.

💡 Pro tip: Pair aeration with overseeding for better seed-to-soil contact and thicker growth.

📗 Source: TruGreen Aeration Tips

Yes — and it’s actually one of the smartest things you can do.
Use a starter fertilizer designed for seeding. It gives new grass the nutrients it needs to establish roots quickly.

Just make sure you’re using the right product — a “starter fertilizer” has a higher phosphorus content, which helps with root development. Avoid weed control products during seeding — they’ll stop new grass from germinating.

📗 Source: NaturaLawn Aeration & Seeding Guide

Bare or patchy spots usually come down to one of a few culprits:

Seed not making contact with the soil

Compacted ground or heavy thatch

Shade or root competition from trees

Inconsistent watering or overwatering

The fix? Aerate to open the soil, verticut when seeding (we do this automatically), and keep seed consistently moist until germination.

Even the best lawns need touch-ups — overseeding each fall keeps yours thick and resilient year after year.

📗 Source: Penn State Extension Lawn Management Guide

When you’ve tried the DIY approach and you’re still seeing weeds, bare patches, or uneven color — it’s time.
A professional service (like us 😉) has commercial-grade products, calibrated equipment, and years of experience diagnosing local soil issues.

Here’s when we can make a big difference:

You have thatch, compaction, or dead zones that keep returning.

You’re unsure which fertilizers, herbicides, or seed blends are safe for your lawn.

You’re busy — and you’d rather let us handle the science while you enjoy the results.

And remember: our referral program can save you up to 50% on fertilization packages.
So even if you’re not ready for full service, referring a friend keeps your lawn (and your wallet) looking good.